Yugoslavian Green Oakmoss Absolute — Evernia prunastri | The Original Chypre DNA | 50% TEC

Description

Part of our Professional Perfumers Range — curated for the discerning natural perfumer seeking exceptional depth and rarity.

Yugoslavian Green Oakmoss Absolute — The Original Chypre DNA

When François Coty created the great feminine masterpiece Chypre in 1917, there was only one oakmoss he would accept: pure, natural green oakmoss from the former Yugoslavian territories. He used an extraordinary 8% of it in that landmark fragrance. Over the following decades, every great perfumer used the same material — from Ernest Beaux with Chanel No 5 through to the classical fougères and chypres that defined 20th century perfumery. It remains, quite simply, the foundational green oakmoss of the entire chypre family.

Solvent extracted in Grasse from lichen (Evernia prunastri) growing on oak trees across the former Yugoslavian territories, this is genuine, uncompromised green oakmoss — not the chemically modified brown material most suppliers offer today to achieve IFRA compliance. As the raw absolute is a thick, semi-solid paste, we supply it at 50% in natural triethyl citrate (TEC) to give a workable, pourable liquid without altering the material’s character in any way.

An essential note on regulation: this material is prohibited under current IFRA standards (IFRA 51 and IFRA 49) due to its natural atranol and chloroatranol content — the same compounds that give oakmoss its distinctive character are also significant skin sensitisers. This is genuine, historically authentic oakmoss exactly as it was used in the classic fragrances of the 20th century, sold for study, restoration work, and formulation in jurisdictions where its use remains permitted. It is not IFRA compliant and should be treated accordingly.

Scent Profile

Intensely earthy and woody, evoking damp forest floors and ancient moss-covered bark — a deep, mossy richness combined with subtle marine undertones and quiet hints of leather and smoke. This is oakmoss at its most complete and uncompromised: green, textured, and profoundly natural in a way the chemically modified alternatives simply cannot replicate. The drydown is extraordinarily long — well over 400 hours on a smelling strip — anchoring compositions with quiet, ancient authority.

Perfumery Applications

The essential base note for classical chypre and fougère compositions, providing exceptional tenacity and genuinely natural depth. This is the material behind the great chypres and fougères of perfumery history — used for restoration and study of classical formulations, and in jurisdictions and applications where genuine, uncompliant oakmoss remains permitted. For IFRA-compliant work, we also carry an atranol-reduced oakmoss absolute elsewhere in our range.

Blending Suggestions

Pairs beautifully with labdanum, patchouli, bergamot, clary sage, vetiver, cypress, geranium, lavender, neroli, orange, palmarosa, tea tree, and ylang ylang.

Technical Details

• Botanical Name: Evernia prunastri
• Common Name: Green Oakmoss
• INCI Name: Evernia Prunastri Extract
• CAS Number: 90028-68-5
• Origin: Former Yugoslavian territories
• Manufactured: France (Grasse)
• Plant Part: Moss/lichen
• Extraction Method: Solvent extraction
• Dilution: 50% in natural triethyl citrate (TEC)
• Classification: Base note — outstanding fixative
• Appearance: Greenish-brown to dark brown, viscous but pourable liquid — warm gently if thickened
• Odour Family: Mossy / Earthy / Woody / Marine / Leather
• Longevity: Over 400 hours on a smelling strip
• IFRA 51 / IFRA 49: Prohibited — not IFRA compliant
• Natural: Yes — 100% natural absolute in natural TEC carrier

Packaging

1ml sample supplied in a 5ml clear flint glass bottle. 5ml, 10ml and 30ml supplied in amber glass bottles — all with inbuilt droppers and tamper evident caps.

Safety Information

For external use only. This material is not IFRA compliant and contains atranol and chloroatranol, significant skin sensitisers — always dilute well and use sparingly. Avoid contact with eyes and sensitive areas. Not suitable for use on babies, children, pets or broken skin. Avoid use during pregnancy or whilst nursing. Always perform a patch test before first use. Distinct from treemoss (Evernia furfuracea), a related but different lichen with a different scent profile.

Sample Policy

We recommend purchasing a 1ml sample first before committing to larger quantities. Please note that no refunds can be offered on opened items.

Certificate of Analysis available on request. Photo images are for illustrative purposes only.